Restaurants, cafés, wine bars, shops and neighborhoods I'd recommend after spending two months in the city.
I've been visiting Istanbul for 15 years. Each year, the city changes, but the things that make it special stay the same. This year, I was lucky enough to spend almost two months living in Istanbul, which gave me plenty of time to explore new neighborhoods, try new restaurants, and, of course, return to the places I've loved for years.
If you're planning a trip to Istanbul and looking for places to eat, drink, shop, or simply wander, these are the places I actually visited this year and would recommend to a friend.
Restaurants I'd Go Back to in Istanbul
Kolcuoğlu, Nişantaşı
This place is all about the grill and the oven. They have a huge selection of kebabs cooked over the large grill that's on display when you enter the restaurant. Personally, I loved the eggplant (patlıcan) kebab. But it's not just about the meat here; they also make plenty of pide and lahmacun, including a number of gluten-free options.
When you arrive, you'll be greeted with a huge selection of meze to choose from to accompany your meal, and it's easy to go overboard. Also, don't pass on dessert here. Their künefe was one of the best I've had in a long time.
Divan, Bebek
Divan's Bebek location has been one of my favorite restaurants in Istanbul for nearly a decade, and it still holds up.
They're open all day, but I usually go for breakfast. I love that they have a slightly smaller breakfast platter than what you'll find at many other places, meaning you don't leave feeling uncomfortably full and can actually finish everything on your plate.
Divan is on the pricier end, but this location is right on the Bosphorus in one of Istanbul's most beautiful neighborhoods, with stunning views.
Çiya Sofrası, Kadıköy
Çiya is on my list every time I visit Istanbul. It's one place I can never pass up. If it's your first visit, it can be a little confusing. They have multiple restaurants on the same street, but you can choose between their home-cooked dishes and kebabs depending on what you're in the mood for.
On this visit, I tried something new: a cherry kebab. It was made with seasoned kebab meat cooked in a delicious, slightly tart and slightly sweet cherry sauce with onions, parsley, and pine nuts. It was served over thin lavash bread, which was perfect for soaking up all of the sauce.
Sade, Nişantaşı
Sade is everything you want when you go out to eat in Istanbul: a large selection of meze, home-cooked dishes, tempting desserts, and plenty of wine or rakı to go along with it all. The atmosphere is nice, but still casual.
The menu was so tempting that we overordered because we couldn't decide what to cut, but it was absolutely worth it. We had delicious stuffed grape leaves, local cheeses, various dips and flatbreads, and ended with a super tender kebab. The meal was excellent, and the prices are reasonable, especially considering it's in one of Istanbul's most upscale neighborhoods.
Rumeli Börekçisi, Beşiktaş
This is one of those places you likely wouldn't find as a tourist, but my in-laws insisted that I try it, and I was so glad they did.
Their specialty is börek, a savory pastry made with thin layers of dough and a variety of fillings. This was some of the best börek I've ever had and is definitely worth a try. They also make really great stuffed grape leaves, so I suggest ordering a few of those as well.
Bakeries & Breakfast Spots in Istanbul
Çakmak Kahvaltı Salonu, Beşiktaş
There's no shortage of Turkish breakfast spots in Istanbul. You could probably eat at a new one every day for a year and still have plenty left to try. This year, we tried Çakmak for the first time, and I can already see it becoming part of our regular rotation.
Their set breakfast comes with just about everything you could want. Of course, there are the usual staples: olives, tomatoes, cucumbers, bread, jams, and eggs, but they also have a few specialties you don't find everywhere else. One I particularly love is pişi, a fried dough that's great on its own, but even better topped with a little honey.
It's also in a lively part of Beşiktaş, which is perfect for a walk around the neighborhood after your meal.
7-8 Hasanpaşa Fırını, Beşiktaş
This bakery, which dates back to 1893, is practically a historical landmark itself. It's a small, traditional shop, and they make some amazing cookies and pastries.
I walked away with a bag of coconut macaroons that were absolutely perfect, and I've been thinking about them ever since.
Anatolia Fırın, Nişantaşı
This little neighborhood bakery became a go-to spot for us during our summer stay in Nişantaşı. From morning simit to tea and cookies in the afternoon, or special treats to bring to family gatherings, they always seemed to have exactly what we wanted.
Don't miss the tahini cookies. They are rich and delicious and something I'm definitely missing now that I'm back home.
Coffee Shops in Istanbul
Kronotrop, Multiple Locations
I tend to avoid coffee chains, but Kronotrop isn't your average chain. They make seriously good coffee, and their shops are usually spacious and quiet enough to spend a few hours working.
Pioni, Nişantaşı
Pioni quickly became one of my favorite spots to stop for coffee in Nişantaşı. Everything I tried here, from a perfect flat white to a refreshing cold brew, was exactly right. I also love the atmosphere. It's bright and airy, great for people-watching, but set just far enough back from the street to feel relaxed.
Çekirdek Coffee, Moda
Çekirdek is a great place to stop if you're exploring Kadıköy on Istanbul's Asian side. The coffee here is strong and smooth, and the owner is very friendly. We spent some time sipping our coffees in the sun on the patio and playing with the animals in the shop.
Wine Bars & Cocktail Bars in Istanbul
Lips, Nişantaşı
Lips is exactly my kind of place: an excellent wine list, good food, and high quality without feeling pretentious.
They have one of the largest selections of Turkish wines I've come across, along with a few international options. The staff are super knowledgeable about the wines and more than willing to help you pick the right bottle.
I came here for the wine, but the food ended up being just as good. The menu has everything from cheese and meat plates to grilled dishes and tapas-style bites, so you can easily make an entire meal out of it. Lips is definitely going to be a spot I return to on future trips to Istanbul.
Fahri Konsolos, Kadıköy
Fahri Konsolos had some of the best cocktails I've had in a long time. While there are plenty of good reasons to make a trip over to Istanbul's Asian side, the cocktails here are definitely one of them.
This isn't your typical cocktail bar. Everything here feels specially crafted and given a lot of thought. I started with the Gül-ı bâr, a gin-based cocktail with cucumber shrub and rose foam. I admit, I picked it based on how pretty it looked, but it also tasted delicious.
Grotesk, Nişantaşı
Although we spent nearly two months living in Nişantaşı, we didn't discover Grotesk until one of our very last days there. From the outside, it looks like a pretty typical bar, but inside it has a much more upscale, sophisticated feel.
They have specialty cocktails, all the usual drinks, and a pretty large food menu. I actually love that despite the sophisticated atmosphere, the menu has plenty of typical "bar food," so you can snack on something fried while enjoying your drink.
Shops & Bookstores in Istanbul
Halt, Nişantaşı
Personally, I'm not a huge shopper, but Halt was a store I kept going back to. The shop focuses on handmade goods, and they've curated a really nice selection. I initially went in looking for a gift, but couldn't stop thinking about the jewelry, colorful mugs, and pillows, and ended up going back to pick up a few things for myself too.
ArtSis, Nişantaşı
Nişantaşı is known for its fashion boutiques, but ArtSis really stood out to me. Here, two sisters design one-of-a-kind pieces that highlight both their creativity and the city of Istanbul. I fell in love with a beautiful trench coat whose sleeves featured an embroidered Istanbul skyline. I didn't end up buying it, but I still wish I had.
Bookstores in Pera
On this trip to Istanbul, I spent a lot of time exploring the city's bookstores, particularly those around Pera. I've written more in-depth about my favorites here, but if you enjoy reading, browsing books, or even just checking out beautiful architectural spaces, this is a really nice area to explore.
Neighborhoods I Loved Wandering in Istanbul
Nişantaşı
Nişantaşı was where I stayed this summer, and I absolutely loved it. This neighborhood has everything: excellent coffee shops, plenty of places to eat, lots of shopping to explore and, of course, plenty of neighborhood cats that I couldn't help but take far too many pictures of.
Bebek
Bebek is always one of my favorite neighborhoods to wander in Istanbul. I love walking along the Bosphorus promenade, stopping for a coffee at one of the many waterfront cafés and window-shopping at the upscale stores around the neighborhood.
Pera
On this trip, I particularly enjoyed getting to know Pera through its bookstores. It's a busy, popular part of Istanbul, but popping into the bookstores felt like finding a quiet oasis in the middle of the city's chaos.
Sarıyer
Sarıyer definitely isn't where most visitors to Istanbul end up, but I think it's one of the best parts of the city to visit when you want something a little calmer. The area is famous for its börek, which is absolutely worth trying, followed by a cup of tea at one of the waterfront cafés.
After 15 years of visiting Istanbul, I still manage to find new places every time I'm here, which is one of the many reasons I keep returning to this wonderful city. Some of the spots on this list have been favorites for years, while others were discoveries from this summer that I already know I'll return to.
If you're planning your own trip, check out my other Istanbul guides for more great places to visit, or check out my Istanbul map with all of my favorite places pinned, available to my paid subscribers on Substack.